Monday, May 25, 2009

Mama

Mama passed away this morning. In her memory I would like to share a few pictures from the days we worked together on her cookbook:











This is the forward I wrote for the cookbook:

When I became a member of the Andreotti family I was introduced to a whole new world of food. Meals at Mama’s included vegetables that in the past I claimed not to like, but not wanting to be rude I would sample everything on my plate. Surprised, I found everything I tasted was delicious! Each time I asked Mama how she prepared a particular dish, she would say, “first you start with olive oil and garlic.” Aha! I learned my first lesson in Italian cooking - no wonder everything tasted so good.

Making this cookbook with Mama was a wonderful experience for me. Because of the countless hours we spent together in the kitchen, sometimes with friends and family joining in but often just the two of us, I learned a lot about my mother-in-law, her family and much about her son, my husband. Cooking different dishes would bring back special memories that she would share with me as we prepared them together. I feel very fortunate that I had the opportunity to have the hands-on experience of making all of these recipes with Mama. There are some directions that just cannot be written down - you have to feel and smell them. Some techniques also take a lot of practice, pasta making for instance - Mama would have me do it over and over and over again, until finally she proclaimed, “That’s it, you’ve got it!” That is something you cannot learn from a book.

When John and I were cruising in Mexico aboard Poseidon our main method of communication with Mama was by e-mail. Often my message would begin, “I cooked such-and-such today and it made me think about you.” That was Mama’s main reason for this cookbook, so that family and friends would always be able to prepare their favorite “Mama Recipe” and that when they did, it would bring back special memories of Mama.

Linda Andreotti
November 2000
And this is the message she wrote in our copy of her cookbook:

Sunday, May 17, 2009

Yin Yang Soup (Tomato Soup, Pea Soup and Lobster Salad)

John said this was one of the best things he's ever tasted! It was delicious, beautiful fresh flavors. There are a quite a few components to this Wolfgang Puck recipe, so mise en place (getting everything ready and in place) is very important.

Start by making the tomato soup. Sweat onions, ginger, garlic and green onions for about 2 minutes. Add kaffir lime leaf (or if not available, lime rind) and crushed lemongrass. Cook for another minute. Add fresh, peeled plum tomatoes, tomato paste, a little sugar and season with salt and pepper. Bring to a boil, lower to a simmer and cook for 10 minutes. Remove the lime leaf and lemongrass. Transfer to a blender (or use a hand-held submersion blender), add butter and chili oil and process to a puree. Strain through a chinois (or fine mesh strainer) and chill over a bowl of ice.

Next make the pea soup. Sweat onions, ginger, garlic and green onions for about 2 minutes. Add Thai basil and coconut milk. Bring to a boil, lower to a simmer and add peas. Season with a little sugar, salt and pepper and simmer for 5 minutes. Remove the Thai basil. Transfer to a blender (or use a hand-held submersion blender), add butter and process to a puree. Strain through a chinois (or fine mesh strainer) and chill over a bowl of ice.

Prepare an Asian vinaigrette by whisking together rice wine vinegar, sesame oil, peanut oil (I use canola oil), soy sauce and lemon juice. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Reserve until ready to use. When I tasted this vinaigrette it tasted very acidic and I wished I hadn't used as much lemon juice as the recipe called for. But when it was mixed with the lobster salad and micro-greens it was the perfect ratio.

Now the lobster salad. Combine cooked, diced lobster meat (I had saved enough lobster I had poached in butter for dinner last night - not an easy thing to do) with diced mango, Thai basil chiffonade, Asian Vinaigrette and season with salt and pepper. Chill until ready to serve.

Ready to plate and serve! Place a 2-inch mold ring in center of a soup plate. Spoon the lobster salad inside the ring. Press into the mold. Ladle the tomato soup on one side of the ring and the pea soup on the other. Decorate the soup by placing a spoonful of contrasting soups over the plated soups. Mix micro-greens and chopped herbs with more of the Asian Vinaigrette and season with salt and pepper. Top lobster salad with micro green mixture and carefully remove the ring. Serve immediately and enjoy an incredible flavor combination.

Saturday, May 16, 2009

Sauteed Scallops with Tomato Vinaigrette


This recipe is from a David Pasternack's The Young Man & the Sea, a birthday gift from my sister. It was written to be a starter, but I tossed the vinaigrette into the pan of scallops for just a minute and served on top of homemade fettuccine. A delicious dinner and I mean delicious!
Blanch tomatoes in boiling water for about 4 minutes. Remove from water and when cool enough to handle, peel off the skins and gently squeeze out the seeds. Place the tomatoes in a blender with sherry vinegar, olive oil, salt and pepper. Puree briefly, add basil and pulse for a second or two to combine.
Dry the scallops with paper towels and season both sides with salt and pepper. Heat some olive oil in a large, nonstick saute pan over medium high-heat. Place scallops in the pan and top each with a piece of butter. Cook, undisturbed for about 3 minutes before turning them (they should caramelize on each side to a crisp golden brown). Serve the scallops with the Tomato Vinaigrette spooned over.

Sunday, May 10, 2009

Happy Mother's Day! - Part 2

I made a beautiful dessert to take to John's mom (we always call her Mama) when we visited this afternoon - Mixed-Berry Tiramisu with Lime Curd from this month's bon appetit magazine. I showed Mama the desserts when we arrived and told her everyone could have some with dinner tonight. She couldn't talk today and her eyes were closed most of the time. Her caregiver went to put the desserts away in the refrigerator but when I looked back at Mama she was pointing at her opened mouth. I asked her if she would like to eat some dessert now and she shook her head yes. She seemed to enjoy it, especially the mascarpone topping. I hope we were able to bring a little joy to her Mother's Day.

The dessert takes a couple of days to make. I made the lime curd and berries yesterday. Today I made the mascarpone topping and assembled the dessert. To make the lime curd, melt butter in a saucepan, remove from the heat. Add sugar, lime juice, lime peel, a pinch of salt and whisk to blend. Add egg yolks and whisk until smooth. Return the saucepan to the heat and whisk constantly until curd thickens slightly and reaches 165 degrees, about 10 to 12 minutes. Pour the curd through a fine strainer. Place plastic wrap directly onto the surface of the curd and chill overnight.


Combine blueberries, raspberries and blackberries with powdered sugar and water in a saucepan. Bring to a simmer and cook until berries are soft but still intact, about 8 minutes. Transfer mixture to a bowl and stir in lime juice. Cool to room temperature and stir in sliced strawberries. Chill for 4 hours or overnight.


Make a syrup for the ladyfingers (use the crispy ones-savoiardi) with water, sugar and lime peel strips. Bring the syrup to a boil until the sugar dissolves. Cool to room temperature and discard the lime peel.

For the mascarpone topping, combine mascarpone and heavy whipping cream in a large bowl. Using an electric mixer, beat until slightly thickened. Add the lime curd and beat just until blended.

To assemble the dessert, brush the ladyfingers on both sides with the syrup and arrange in a single layer in 13x9x2-inch glass baking dish. Pour the chilled berry mixture over. Drop mascarpone topping by large spoonfuls over berry mixture, then spread evenly, covering the berries completely. Cover and chill at least 8 hours.



Spoon dessert into bowls and serve:

Happy Mother's Day!


Happy Mother's Day Mamina,
We hope you are having a wonderful day in beautiful North Carolina. The pan on the stove is your split pea soup. It will be in the freezer for you when you get home. We love you very much. Give kisses to Eric, Sarah & Sophie.

Saturday, May 9, 2009

Shrimp & Pork Steamed Dumplings

We really enjoyed the dumplings at S,J&M's last weekend. I was wishing I could make them on the boat, but knew I didn't have room to store a wok and big bamboo steamer. And then ... I found a mini bamboo steamer!!

I was hoping to make dumplings for lunch but didn't have any ground pork and no hope of finding any I would want to cook with in Ventura. Then I realized, duh, that I had a pork shoulder in the freezer that I could grind myself. I can't believe I hadn't already been grinding my own pork. It's so easy and there's no doubt that the meat is fresh. The recipe I used was from Nancy Oakes, the chef/owner of Boulevard in San Francisco. What makes her filling different is that she bakes the mushrooms and scallions first. Start by tossing thinly sliced shitake mushrooms, minced scallions (including green tops) with cilantro, minced ginger, soy sauce and oil. Bake in a 350 degree oven for about 5 minutes. Transfer the mushroom mixture to a bowl and cool. Stir in chopped shrimp and ground pork. Season with salt. Lay a few gyoza or wonton wrappers on a work surface. Put a spoonful of filling in the center of each. Moisten the outside edge of the wrapper with a little water and pinch edges of dumplings together to seal. Cook in the bamboo steamer over simmering water for 6 to 7 minutes.




Serve with a dipping sauce. Today I mixed together soy sauce, Chinese garlic chile sauce, sesame oil and a little hoisin sauce.



Look at these beautiful oyster mushrooms we found at the Farmer's Market this morning:I cooked them very simply in a little olive oil, butter, salt and pepper and served them for dinner tonight with a rib eye steak that John bbqd perfectly.

Thursday, May 7, 2009

Potato Galettes Stuffed with Swiss Chard and Gruyere

Two crispy potato pancakes, filled with sauteed greens and grated cheese, baked until golden brown, with cheese oozing out - oh yum!


Start by coarsely grating potatoes. Melt butter and olive oil in a heavy, ovenproof skillet over medium heat. Add the grated potatoes, pressing down to create a flat pancake. Season with salt and pepper. Cook for about 7 minutes on one side, or until crisp and golden brown. Carefully flip the potato cake over and cook for another 5 or 6 minutes. Flip the galette onto a large plate. Make another galette and flip onto another plate. Meanwhile, cook chopped Swiss chard (or spinach or any other green you like) in olive oil for about 5 minutes, until wilted and just soft. Season with salt and pepper. Assemble in an ovenproof skillet or a pyrex pie plate. Place one of the galettes on the bottom. Spoon the cooked greens over the top, pressing down to create a flat surface. Sprinkle grated Gruyere cheese over the greens and top with the remaining galette. Bake in a 450 degree oven for 15 to 20 minutes, or until the cheese has melted and the potato cake is hot, crispy, and golden brown.

I cut the galette in wedges and served with a tomato and cucumber salad - a great weekday dinner.

Sunday, May 3, 2009

Visiting Marco & His Parents

It had been almost six weeks since Sarah, Jeff & Marco had been to Ventura and we were missing them so we drove up to Oakland on Saturday morning.

Marco greets Papa (he loves his Papa!) and shows him around the yard: It won't be long before Marco figures out that water faucet and then look out:He has mastered the fork and is a good little eater:It drizzled most of the day on Saturday, but when it was time to cook dinner the rain stopped so Jeff decided to cook pizza on the grill. Sarah & I put on our comfy cozies and we had a very relaxing evening enjoying pizza and wine outside on their deck. The pizza was delicious and the company was the best.
On Sunday we had brunch at Camino. It's a real comfy restaurant with long tables of family-style dining. Almost everything is cooked in a wood-burning oven or over a large wood-burning grill. We ordered almost everything on the menu and shared - it was delicious! We had grilled bread with fresh butter and sea salt; a condiment plate with cheese, anchovies and pickled vegetables; grilled pork & herb sausages; potatoes roasted in duck fat (oh yum!); wood oven-baked eggs with herbs and cream; buttermilk biscuits with greens and giblet gravy; pork skewers; asparagus and mint frittata with arugula salad; and a couple bottles of sparkling rose (Julian Fouet Crémant de Loire Rosé, Loire). Marco liked everything except the anchovies and especially enjoyed the champagne cork:
After brunch we went to a park so Marco could burn off a little energy:












I LOVE this picture:Later that afternoon Heather, Taki, Nikos & Olive and Katie, Jack & Brooke came to visit. See the Romios blog for more cute kid pictures www.romiosfamily.blogspot.com. Sarah served very refreshing Chambord & champagne cocktails.

For dinner Sunday night we made shrimp & pork dumplings:

Jeff also made stir-fried chicken and broccoli with noodles and Chinese spareribs - scrumptious!
Our weekend ended much too soon, but it's time for us to get back to our diets!
Bye sweetie, we'll see you again soon: