Saturday lunches are my favorite lunches. We go to the Ventura Farmer's Market on Saturday mornings, so our lunch is always something fresh and inspired from the market. Today's lunch was a Cabot Aged Cheddar Cheese Souffle and my motivation was the "Egg Guy". One of our favorite vendors sells the most delicious eggs I have ever tasted. In fact, that's all he sells and he is very proud of his eggs. One week I asked him what he fed his chickens. He got very excited, went into the cab of his truck and brought out a little cup filled with his chicken feed and described every ingredient. Next he brought out a notebook showing us pictures of his free-range chickens and how he cared for them. I'm convinced that his passion and care of his chickens is one of the reasons his eggs are so incredible. When he first started selling at our market we were drawn to his stall by his face - he has a great face. Anyone who knows John well, or has traveled with him, knows that he seeks out a "nice face". This has nothing to do with good looks or superficial beauty, but a certain look that promises an interesting individual and almost always a kind person. The "nice faces" John has discovered on our vacations have made for some very interesting and memorable trips!
Another favorite vendor is the "Herb Guy". Last weekend he told us he worked for a farmer, growing herbs, for thirty years. He retired a few years ago and now has his own small herb garden and sells what he harvests at a couple of local markets. This is another man who is passionate about what he grows and enjoys sharing his knowledge. He likes it when customers pay him in quarters because he saves them for his visits to the Chumash Casino! He recently started selling lettuces, so I picked up a bag of his fresh mixed greens for a salad to serve with our souffle.
To make the Cheese Souffles:
Butter six individual souffle dishes and sprinkle with Parmesan cheese. This will keep the eggs from sticking to the dish and the cheese gives the eggs something to hold on to while rising up past the top of the dish. Melt 3 tablespoons of butter in a small saucepan and when melted, stir in 3 tablespoons of flour. Stir for a couple of minutes, then whisk in a cup of warm milk. Continue whisking until smooth. Remove the pan from the heat and add 4 egg yolks, one at a time, whisking after each addition. Add 4 ounces of cheese (I used a Cabot aged cheddar, but any cheese would be great), 1/2 teaspoon salt and a pinch of ground nutmeg. Whisk until combined, pour into a large bowl and cool. Meanwhile, beat 5 egg whites until firm, glossy peaks form. Carefully fold 1/3 of the egg whites at a time into the yolk mixture. Pour the eggs into the dishes and bake at 375 degrees for 25 to 30 minutes. Do not peek into the oven for at least 25 minutes! For a dramatic presentation serve the souffles immediately, they begin to deflate within a minute or two after leaving the oven.
My first taste of the souffle brought back a very strong childhood food memory - and a good one! My mom used to make what she called a puffy omelet, I loved it but hadn't thought about those yummy eggs in forty years. That bite of airy, cheesy souffle took me back to our kitchen in Sylmar. I pictured mom taking her Revere Ware skillet, filled with the golden, puffy eggs and melted cheddar cheese, out of the pink oven - yes the house my parents bought in 1962 in the San Fernando Valley had pink kitchen appliances! This vivid taste memory made me curious about mom's puffy egg recipe and how it compared with a souffle recipe. For years the only cookbook in our house was Better Homes and Gardens New Cook Book, so I was pretty sure that's where I would find the recipe. Turns out my dad still had the cookbook (his source for his famous Salmon Loaf):
And here is the recipe, I knew I would find it in this old classic book:
I don't remember mom making the cheese sauce, it seems to me she grated Tillamook Sharp Cheddar cheese on the omelet before it went in to the oven. I have accused my mother of never cooking "fancy food" for us when we were growing up and turns out she was cooking "souffle-in-disguise". If I asked her why, I'm sure she would say, "If I had told you kids I was serving a souffle no one, including your father, would have even tried it. Puffy Eggs was an easier sell."
A note to my siblings - This morning Dad gave me the red and white checkered cookbook. So next time you're looking for his famous Salmon Loaf recipe, it's to me you will have to come begging - hah!




